From his Instagram post: ​ >Zvěřinec (Menagerie) 9b+ (hard) FA❗Today I completed surely the second hardest route of my life (after Silence 9c) ✌️ In 2011, I made my first ascent of Perlorodka (Pearloyster) after quite a few days of effort. Striking line in possibly the best rock that we have at our homecrag (Moravian Karst, Czechia 🇨🇿) Very improbable crux at solid 8B+ difficulty with reachy moves and desperate slapping of the completely rounded lip of the overhang. Back then, I gave it 9a+, but I think it deserves more 9b 🤔Zveřinec climbs the same crux but has a different start that could be 9a+ on its own, with good rest in between.After struggling the last two weeks with conditions, today it was just perfect 👌 0 degrees of Celsius (32 °F), overcast, no wind, absolutely dry rock. With perfect warmup at my homewall, I could fight the cold temperature of the air and the advantage of the best friction ☝️ > > > >Wait for the video from the ascent on my YouTube channel, coming the next year ✊ ​ That's his fourth 9b+. All of which are FA. [https://www.hardestclimbs.com/sport/ondra](https://www.hardestclimbs.com/sport/ondra)


Could even be his 5th 9b+ depending on what Move settles at (Adam suggested 9b/+, and in an unusual break from his usual downgrading Seb Bouin suggested an upgrade to 9b+.)


Ha, yes, that is true. Hard to believe Seb didn’t wanna add another 9b/+ to his resume.


He graded change 9b/+ in exchange lol


Seb bouin did downgrade change at the same time


I wonder how long he can put up routes of this difficulty. Thinking about a climbers “prime” and how much of an outlier Ondra had been throughout his career his longevity may be legendary also. Seems his style has changed over the years as he’s put on weight and strength.


Dudes 29...why are yall talking about him like he should be washed


Over 25? Basically dead


He needs to retire, honestly. His arms will fall off if he climbs more


I think it is ingrained into a lot of people that athletes have a sharp decline after 30 which isn't always wrong. These years of insane climbing can come to quick stop if he picks up a couple injuries that keep him off the wall.


I suppose, but the after 30 rule is normally for intense sports like hockey, football, soccer, sprints, etc. Climbing is a relatively low intensity and its virtually zero impact as well.


I agree. People just dont think through it quite that much sometimes though haha.


It's less his longevity and more just that he arrived on the scene very young. He was 19 when he sent Change, and 20 when he did La Dura Dura. He's been at the top level for a decade now but he's still not even 30 yet, and is only two weeks older than Stefano who quite clearly is still pushing his own personal limits. Don't expect him to slow down any time soon


> He's been at the top level for a decade now but he's still not even 30 yet Holy shit I just realized he's only 29 right now (which, in theory is right around most athlete's prime age). Absolutely ludicrous. It also reminds me of Messi and C. Ronaldo. Yesterday I saw on TV a coverage of these two and how this is gonna be their last world cup. It feels strange to hear that given how long I have been hearing those two footballer's names.


Adam saying this is his second hardest route, and then having been 11 years since his send of silence made me think of his longevity. Do you think he sends another 9C?


Didn’t Adam send Silence in 2017? It’s only been 5 years.


It's not easy to find a climb at just the right difficulty, and in your style. Then you have to try it for years. You don't just climb an 9c every two year. And maybe he has 9c project going, but just hasn't sent yet (like the project he was trying with Jacob in flatanger maybe ?)


Sharma put up several 9b/+ routes post 30. Sure Ondra will hang many more.


Lynn Hill became the first person to free Nose in a day when she was 33. I'm sure he has plenty of time as long as he doesn't get injured.


Jonathan Siegrist is 37 and currently having his best year of climbing ever. Same for Dave Graham, at age 40 this year. I suspect Ondra has potential for at least another 10 years of top level performance, provided no unfortunate occurrences to sideline him.


I really hope we see Adam establish something 10a. I think that will be a really nice distinct mark on his already long and amazing legacy.


I find it crazy unlikely that Ondra will jump two grades this late into his career but he is a beast so I won’t try to predict anything with him.


Agree. Maybe 9c+ if everything goes perfectly, but two grade is really a crazy jump.


Well who knows if Silence isn't in fact 9c+? So far this could very well be the case


It most likely isn’t lol.


I just hope Indra gives up the comp stuff. Seems really bad for longevity and general joint health.


I think he mentioned in a video with Magnus that he would most likely not even be doing comps anymore if it wasn’t for his desire to go the next Olympics. I think that’ll be it for him. One last shot at a medal and then retire from the comp scene


I remember Eric Horst mentioning on the Nugget that climbers typically peak 20-25 years after starting their climbing career, regardless of age. And he specifically mentioned that Ondra would have another 5 years or so until hitting his peak. Climbing is a skill sport. It's not uncommon at all to see climbers commonly peak in their 30s or 40s. I do think this is changing with climbers starting so young now, so I do think we'll see more climbers peaking in their 20s, but Ondra will be putting up hard 15s for a long time still if he wants to. I think it will just happen less often as he gets older as it will take longer to recover more than anything.


So I will peak between 55 and 60 years old…


this is a good question that i’ve been navigating myself, a lot these days. i’m 35, have a 5 years base, but within that 5 i was out for a year and a half due to injury. back at it now for 6 months and am 80% back. in no way am i trying to brag, it’s not even brag worthy, but just for context: at 33 right before my injury i was project v10 (CCC colorado 10s… so a little soft sometimes), and climbing 8-9s confidently. a lot of my younger climbing crew were climbing the same with about 5+ years more of experience (started pre-teenage years the lot of them). at 35 now, i’m projecting 8s (these are all outdoor grades) and flashing most 6s and 7s. i eat, live and train consistently at the healthiest level i can, and i’m very surprised how quickly my “older” body is adapting. my goal is to climb Everything Genesis by the time i’m 45, and i think it’s entirely possible for me, with so more refined training. so that being said: i think it’s possible to push higher grades and higher age, especially for people like Ondra or Graham that have a perfect climbing fitness base, but even for us peons… if you’re dedicated enough, have good genetics, and don’t get hurt… i think us older individuals have a chance! if not there’s always trad ¨̮


What is everything genesis?


my (realistic) dream boulder in Clear Creek Canyon , CO. it’s a daniel woods boulder. in the prestige world wide area right around the corner from the classic, roadside traverse. it’s about a 1 mile class 4 scramble up to it. the landing levels out around the corner so it gets better.


Did you mean everything gneiss?




interesting to see if anyone ever tries Vasil Vasil again, his czech routes don't get much attention.


I assumed Will Bosi would have wanted to have a look at it on his visit, particularly given how similar the style looks to his adopted home at Ravenstor, but I don't recall any mention of it.


I do recall Bosi talking about intending to try it before heading out there, though haven't seen any mention post-trip


I would love to see that, especially considering Ondra said it contains the hardest single move he's ever done


When did he say that? All I've read is that he could do the move in isolation but had trouble on a full go. It sounds like the crux of Vasil Vasil is conditions and skin


https://eveningsends.com/adam-ondra-hardest-single-move-world-plus-2014-plans/ "It is definitely the hardest move I have ever done with harness and rope. And even in bouldering, I can think of moves of similar difficulty, but can’t think of anything harder."


Thanks! Wonder if it’s still true ~10 years later


I red somewhere that those caves where Vasil is are forbidden to climbing and that you need permission to climb in that area, Adam for sure knew that, but maybe he got away because of his reputation, I am not really sure but that seems logic why there was no other ascents in 10 years, also it really depends on conditions, Adam said in one video that that area is often flooded.


Nah vasil vasil is at ondra’s home crag, he took magnus there during their colab


is swimming aid?


Dad strength ;)


I thought La Dura Dura would be up there as his second hardest, as it hasn't seen a repeat in almost ten years since Sharma climbed it. Anybody know if it has been tried by Seb Bouin, Stefano Ghisolfi, Schubert or Megos? I would guess a repeat is very sought-after.


Not sure about those guys, but Janja Garnbret tried it this year.




Speaking of people climbing La Dura Dura, do we know yet whether or not it's still climbable in close to its original form? Haven't heard any updates about the fire damage in a while.


As did Nico Pelorson (of Soudain Seul fame).


The fire didn’t affect the climbing conditions there?


I certainly see would be suitors being put off by the chipped holds. There are nicer 9b+s around


from where do you get the info that there are chipped holds on la dura dura?


I didn't know there were chipped holds in La Dura Dura. Too bad!


How do you climb rock at 32 degrees without your hands going numb? That’s amazing.


When you are on small enough holds, there is very little contact to cool your hands down, and with the right layering and warmup tactics you can keep them the right temperature. Also, for really small and friction-y holds you almost want you hands to be numb because they stick better. Then it’s just about keeping just enough warmth in them to maintain dexterity.


What’s your warm up routine? I’ve tried a lot of things hands still cold


My warmup routine is to wait until it is warm and sunny so I can work my heinous 5.10b proj in shorts and t-shirt.


Use mitts and a squeeze ball inside the mitts


Hot rock!


I’ve had to live this for the past week in the red. Try to climb in the sun, and focus on keeping your body and hands warm once you warm up. If you let your body cool down, you will numb out. Invest in a high quality jacket and some down pants and put them on whenever you are going to spend time not climbing. Get hand warmers (hot hands super warmers are great) to keep your hand warm when they’re in your pockets and put one in your chalk bag when you’re climbing ropes. If your feet are numbing out/your shoes really hurt because they’re cold, it can also be helpful to put them in your jacket when you’re preparing to climb. Also, use belay gloves when your are belaying. You can tuck hand warmers in those too. Bouldering is a lot more pleasant in the cold than sport climbing because you don’t spend as much time in contact with the rock. If you do sport climb in the cold, when your hands numb out use a rest stance to warm them back up by putting them somewhere warm on your body or in a chalk bag with a hand warmer. If you manage to warm them up, they probably won’t numb out again during the climb.


This is the detail I was looking for, thank you


Quickly. And likely in the sun


The text above says it was cloudy.


That sector is in the shade


The Age of Ondra has only just begun


This ondra guy is pretty good at this climbing thing


Is this the route that Ondra is climbing in [this video](https://youtu.be/8-5yuVuDFzU?t=905) with Magnus?


Ooo good reference. Cant wait for the vid!


Unexpected but awesome!


Get a good sense of how close you gotta be to the wall to pull these moves!


HOW!? 0°C in the shade is batshit crazy for all time hardest route (or one of). At that temperature everything feels like glass to me, my climbing shoes feel like laminated and handholds feel like the glossy doubletex part. I dont understand I always had a feeling that below 5°C hard lead climbing is impossible. No I feel even worse about myself 🫠


If you get properly warmed up it’s amazing to climb in cold temps. It’s just really hard to do it properly.


Im not talking about numbness or bodyfeel, I am fine with that. I am talking about the physical properties of the rock, the skin and the shoes. Everything feels less sticky at freezing temps.






Well it is, at like 5-10 °C. But 0°C and below? Dont know many people that find it prefferable. Especially you you need good rubber friction.


0°C is equivalent to 32°F, which is 273K. --- ^(I'm a bot that converts temperature between two units humans can understand, then convert it to Kelvin for bots and physicists to understand)


That is totally temps, I feel like much hotter makes it hard to climb hard.


Up to 18°C in the shade feels totally perfect for me. Idk


18°C is equivalent to 64°F, which is 291K. --- ^(I'm a bot that converts temperature between two units humans can understand, then convert it to Kelvin for bots and physicists to understand)


0°C is equivalent to 32°F, which is 273K. --- ^(I'm a bot that converts temperature between two units humans can understand, then convert it to Kelvin for bots and physicists to understand)


His first in almost 10 years